W Trek vs O Circuit: Which Route Should You Choose?
The W Trek (so named for its shape on the map) covers the park's three most dramatic viewpoints — Valle del Francés, Grey Glacier, and the Base Las Torres — in a logical 5-day east-to-west or west-to-east traverse. This is the right choice for most hikers: all the greatest hits, manageable distances (12–20 km per day), and full refugio infrastructure.
The O Circuit adds the remote back side of the Paine Massif — the John Gardner Pass (1,241m, the W Trek's high point) and the seldom-trodden valleys of the park's quieter western edge. Four additional days of more demanding terrain reward with absolute solitude. Camping only — no refugios on the back side.
Book refugios a minimum of 6 months before your intended travel date during November–February peak season. Las Torres Base Camp refugio and the Grey Glacier refugio sell out months in advance.
Booking Your Refugios: What You Need to Know
The Torres del Paine refugio system is operated primarily by Vertice Patagonia and Las Torres Patagonia. Online booking opens approximately 12 months before the travel date — set a calendar reminder.
Refugios offer dormitory beds ($45–$60 USD/night) or private rooms ($100–$160 USD/night), both including breakfast and dinner. The food is surprisingly good: three-course dinners and hot breakfasts before each day's hiking. The refugios also sell snacks, beer, and (surprisingly) wine at the end of a long day.
For campers, the same operators run campsites adjacent to most refugios ($10–$18 USD/night per person). Bring your own tent and sleeping bag; camp kitchens with gas stoves are provided. Camping is the cheapest option and gives more flexibility, but refugio dormitories are significantly warmer.
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Day-by-Day W Trek Route (East to West)
Day 1: Arrive Las Torres from Puerto Natales. Afternoon acclimatisation hike. Refugio Las Torres.
Day 2: The Las Torres Viewpoint — a 4-hour round trip to the iconic granite spires above Laguna Torres. This is the photograph that defines the park. Start before 7 am for clear morning light. Refugio Las Torres overnight.
Day 3: Hike to Valle del Francés — the park's most dramatic valley, framed by hanging glaciers and the towering Cuernos del Paine. 8 hours of walking; some route-finding required. Refugio Cuernos or Británico.
Day 4: Continue west to Grey Glacier viewpoints. Lago Grey's cerulean water and floating ice make for surreal late-afternoon light. Refugio Grey.
Day 5: Ferry across Lago Grey to Puerto Natales transfer point. Return bus. Trip complete.
Patagonia Weather: What to Expect and How to Dress
Patagonian weather is famously extreme and unpredictable. "Four seasons in one day" is not a cliché — it is operational planning advice. High winds (gusts exceeding 100 km/h have been recorded), rain, sleet, and brilliant sunshine can all occur within hours of each other.
The essential gear principle: waterproof and windproof outer shell is non-negotiable. Your Pertex or Gore-Tex jacket is not optional even on days that start cloudless. Trekking poles are strongly recommended for stream crossings (some are knee-deep during snowmelt) and for stability in crosswind conditions on exposed ridgelines.
Boots: waterproof, ankle-supporting, well broken-in. The trial is no place for new footwear. Blister prevention starts at home, not on the trail.